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Durham is home to some fantastic independent businesses. This week, I have chosen to have a look at the three indie bookshops that are unique, inspirational and provide refreshing pull to the city’s high street.


BookWyrm


Nestled inside of Durham Market Hall is BookWrym. Founded by husbands Chris and Miles, it specialises in LGBTQ+ publications as well as books from small and independent authors. I spoke to Chris- pictured here on their iconic chair.


Chris- one half of the successful BookWyrm partnership. Cracking outfit too!

Chris told me that Miles is a successfully published author- originally of sci-fi and fantasy but more recently of children’s books. It is a thriving business, supported by students, tourists and a very healthy local customer base. They contribute to the Durham Book Festival as well as literary events around the city.

Chris said that, although this was their own creation, they took some inspiration from Portal Bookshop in York. Since setting up, they have also helped to inspire the creation of The Queerish Bookshop in Darlington.


Favourite book: Chris- The House in the Cerulean Sea by T J Klune.

Miles- Snapdragon by Kat Leyh


Favourite thing about Durham: The community here in Durham.



Collected


Collected is a bookshop specialising in work written by women. The current store, at 44 Riverwalk, was opened in 2022 by owner Emma Hamlett.



Emma hard at work. Lovely selection of cakes! The shop will soon expand. Watch this space.

Emma has always been a bibliophile and avid recommender of books and when she left her career as a museum curator in 2020 she knew her new career lay in literature. She started her business from a mobile van until moving to the current location.


Why books by women?


Despite growing equality there is still a gender bias when it comes to publishing, the media and reading habits. The majority of literature put in front of us is created, published and critiqued by men. Therefore, Collected goes some way in addressing these dated norms.

The bookshops is flourishing and also has a small café where customers can enjoy a morning cappuccino and cake with their new purchase. Collected is expanding and will soon have an second floor.


Favourite thing about Durham: Emma says she loves how the city is classically medieval. It’s winding streets, vennels and the iconic setting inside the meander of the River Wear. (As a geography teacher, I was impressed by her observational eye!)



People’s Bookshop



First established in 2011, People’s Bookshop now has it’s new home on Durham’s High Street. It was always intended to be more than a book shop- it aims to ‘create a community hub, a space for the free flow of ideas…and a gathering place for radical Durham’.



People's Bookshop- their new location on the High Street has proved immensely popular.

Jeremy Corbin is a big fan of the shop and it oozes a charm that would attract anyone interested in political and social history and culture of the county. It is set up as a community benefits society and is run by 30 volunteers. It is now more popular than ever due to its accessibility and wide customer base.


Regularly, it [literally] rolls back it’s bookcases to host a range of events with refreshments. I have not been to one yet, but certainly will do.


Upcoming events at People’s Bookshop:

- Wednesday 6th February: Mark Chapman, God's Promises Mean Everything - book launch

- Friday 7th February: Tom Rowan- singer/songwriter- live performance

- Friday 21st February: Emory Southwick, Pride of Place: Queer Spaces of County Durham (Miles from BookWyrm will feature at this event).



So, when you next visit Durham, please pay a visit out independent bookshops. An amazing set of people who are really doing their bit to bring some exciting destinations to out city. My wife is going to kill me as I will now inevitably buy more books!


Peter Groark


Walkabout Durham


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Most people visit Durham for an overnight stay or two. Many come here as part of a north east trip or stay over while on route from York to Edinburgh. It is a perfect city to explore on foot within a couple of days. Here are some tips for things to do in this picturesque and historic gem.


Durham Cathedral, part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site

Walking tour


My customers always say that it’s the best thing they have done when first arriving in Durham. Walkabout Durham History Tour runs throughout the day, every two hours. Check out the History Tour page and book online on our website for the cheapest prices. It offers a comprehensive history of the city along with helping you to orientate yourself and take in some cracking views on the peninsula. There are also a range of other tours if you want something a little different.



Durham Cathedral



The magnificent baptismal font. Installed by Bishop Cosin after the Reformation.


The jewel in the crown. Almost everyone who visits Durham does so to see Durham Cathedral and the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Described as one of the best examples of Norman architecture in England, it is an awe-inspiring sight. You will learn about it and see the exterior on all of our tours, but it is also worth paying a visit to the interior. I recommend spending a half day here. Here’s what to do:



Durham Castle


Castle keep

Commissioned by William The Conqueror in the 11th century, Durham Castle is now home to Durham University. Tours are available, but times are dictated largely by the activities of the students who live there. Check availability and book online through their website https://www.durham.ac.uk/things-to-do/venues/durham-castle/visit/tickets-and-times/ 


Oriental Museum


Archaeology and art from the ancient Egyptians through to modern China. It is a free museum and part of Durham university. 

Located on Elvet Hill to the south of the city, you will need to be prepared for a mile walk or you can get a bus or drive. Visit the website for further details. 


Botanic Garden


Located across the road from the Oriental museum is Durham University’s Botanic Garden. Set in 25 acres of woodland, it provides beautiful walks and nature in abundance. The only downside is that it does not accept dogs (apart from guide and assistance dogs.) Visit the website for opening times and prices. 



Where to eat?


You are spoiled for choice in Durham. It has really become a foodie hot spot and I don’t know where to start. I will pick out a few highlights but this list is by no means exhaustive. I will give a range of different cuisines.  


La Spaghettata- Saddler Street. Authentic Italian, very atmospheric and my personal go-to for a night out with the wife!


Coarse- Reform Place, off North Road. I have never eaten there, but many of my customers rave about it. In the Michelin Guide and offers a tasting menu with excellent reviews. Certainly a destination restaurant and why not book it as a treat.


The Rabbit Hole- Halgarth Street. I was here for my last birthday. Fantastic food. It is Cantonese-fusion and beautiful. Can be on the pricey side but well worth booking a table. It looks tiny from the outside, but it truly is a rabbit hole. 


Shaheens- North Bailey. Indian cuisine and it is one of the best I have had. Excellent location, just off Palace Green, and the staff are lovely. 



Where to drink?


An attraction in their own right, the historic pubs of Durham are not to be missed. I also run a Pub and History Tour that operates Monday-Thursday and takes in four historic pubs in the city. Here are just some pubs to visit if you like real ale:


The Victoria- Hallgarth Street. Impressive selection of real ales, amazing staff and open fires. My favourite during the winter months. It is around a 5 minute walk from the city centre.


The Dun Cow- Old Elvet. Oldest pub in the city and home to some ghosts too! 


The Market Tavern- Market Place. It is run by a chain but has character and has a decent selection of guest ales. Live sport is shown here. 


The Swan and Three Cygnets-Elvet Bridge. A Sam Smiths pub which means it is cheap. A lovely stout on tap. Have a look in each of the rooms as they contain historical photos of the different aspects of Durham.   

 

If you’re after cocktails and want something with a little class, try Cosy Club- the Riverwalk. Two for one deals at certain times of the day and has a lovely relaxed atmosphere.



Suggested two day itinerary


Day 1: Walking tour, Durham Cathedral and Durham Castle.


Day 2: Oriental Museum and Botanic Garden


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